: The practice was first recorded among noblewomen in Makassar in the 17th century. Societal Shift

After the final walk, as applause filled the venue, Umi shuffled toward the stage. Sari braced for a critique. Instead, Umi reached up and touched the corner of Sari’s own hijab—a simple black bawal Sari had tied in a signature loop.

The hijab has been a part of Indonesian culture since the 13th century, when Islam was first introduced to the archipelago. Initially, the hijab was worn as a symbol of modesty and piety. Over time, the hijab evolved to become an integral part of Indonesian fashion, with various styles and designs emerging.

Sari’s collection was a rebellion against the notion that modesty meant monotony. She paired a deep maroon songket hijab, pinned asymmetrically with a vintage Minangkabau brooch, with a flowing kebaya —a traditional Javanese blouse—but cut the sleeves into modern, exaggerated lantern shapes. Another look featured a batik hijab from Yogyakarta, its parang (mountain) motif symbolizing resilience, wrapped over a deconstructed denim jacket.

The government, through the Ministry of Trade and the Indonesian Ulama Council (MUI), has actively promoted halal fashion as an export commodity. The "Halal Lifestyle" sector is a core pillar of Indonesia’s economic roadmap. According to State of the Global Islamic Economy reports, Indonesia consistently ranks as a top consumer of modest fashion, spending billions annually on hijabs and related apparel.